The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux delivers a superb bouquet of cassis, wild damson, grilled squab, sweet soil tones, licorice and exotic spices. On the palate, its medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with a lavish core of old vine fruit, succulent acids, and fine-grained structuring tannins, concluding with a long and dramatic finish. This cuvée, from seventy-year-old vines, is the insiders choice for chez Cathiard this year. (Interim January 2019 Week 1, The Wine Advocate, 5th Jan 2019)